I’m embarking on a new sewing project today, my vintage Teal Traina pattern! I’ll be making the turquoise linen suit pictured. I think it would be fun to show you my sewing process, failing and all!
Since I constantly try to give myself new challenges, I’ve chose to line it with a soft (and quite heavy) viscose fabric. I purchased both fabrics at Stoff & Stil in Åsane. The first thing I had to fix, was to enlarge the waist in my pattern.
Click below to see how I enlarge the waist size in a pattern!
First you’ll need pattern paper (buy at a sewing shop or at Stoff & Stil), a pair of paper scissors (for the love of god do not use your tailors scissors!), some clear tape, a pencil, a long ruler and measuring tape.
Turn your pattern envelope and check the sizing. Usually when purchased abroad these numbers are inches. (1 inch, 2,54 cm). Look below size 16 – 38 (bust)/ 30 (waist)/ 40 (hip). I’m a 31″ waist so I’ll need to enlarge the pants and the jacket waist by 1 inch.
Tape or pin your pattern piece to the pattern paper above the adjustment line. Divide the 1 inch by 8, and you’ll have the correct enlargement for one pattern piece. Mark the enlargement (here 3 mm) on each side of the pattern, making a fading curve downwards.
I don’t know if it’s completely correct, but I like to move the seam line as well, so you’ll be tracing correctly when marking the fabric. I’ve measured and retraced the seam line with a pencil the same way we marked the extension of the waist (3 mm).
Cut your pattern piece from the pattern paper and pin to fashion fabric. I’ll be posting the entire process of making this suit, failing and all – learning to sew can be challenging. Next time we’ll look at crotch adjustment for pants, and enlarging the jacket waist. Then I’ll make a post on how to correctly mark your fabric for sewing.
Let me know if you have any questions!