In the beginning of january through 10th of march, I attended a course at KHiB (Kunsthøgskolen i Bergen) focusing on digital weaving. I’ve creating two amazing fabrics, this is the first one – the second one I’ve also dyed. I’ll show it to you next week. This fabric is woven at Innvik Sellgren, who traditionally makes upholstry fabric. My tutor Jon Pettersen advised me to work with double weaving so the fabric would be lighter and better suited for clothing. The course was very thorough and super interesting, learning all about weaving, warps and wefts, different types of binding and how to make our own bindings.
As you can see from my fabric – when you zoom in the composition becomes clearer. For this fabric I’ve chosen 5 shaft satin effect, which means that the weft thread (blue or orange) passes over 5 warp threads (white and black) before it goes under one thread and up again. This means that the blue and orange color (weft threads) will be more dominant. The stain which is white/pale blue is a warp effect 5 shaft satin binding. When you see a weave without any “fabric” in it, it will have threads set up. These are called warp threads, and when you make bindings you can choose whether to hide these totally, medium or make them dominant in the fabric.
As you can see from this picture, the back of my fabric looks completely plain compared to the front. But you’ll also perhaps notice that the backside has a lot of black in it. And I hate black. I do. Or at least I avoid it at all costs. So, I’ve used a method called double weaving. In a loom the weft threads are often both white and black. When you double-weave you can separate these threads and weave a front (top) fabric with white warp and wefts of your choosing, and a back (bottom) fabric using the black warp threads. The back is usually an inverted version of the front. These two layers can be stitched together in the loom or barely stitched together like mine. In my case these two layers can be ripped away from one another, so I have two lengths of fabric instead of one. I’ve started developing a new pattern for this fabric, can’t wait to start sewing!
Making my own fabric was an amazing experience, and so much fun. I got to know so many cool people at the course, and it was very refreshing from my solitude in the studio!
Thank you Kari Merethe for excellent guidance, and thanks to Jon Pettersen for aiding me in my design development and technical input. In my next post I’ll show you the other fabric I made!