In late october I moved my studio back into the apartment. We had a spare room which wasn’t really being used for anything, and I found that I wanted to spend more time sewing. I spent a lot of time going back and forth to the studio, and I think I’m better off now, being able to sketch down my ideas immediately and then execute them. Anyway, this is a coat I’m working on, and it’s actually the very first pattern I’ve designed from scratch. It is very liberating starting to be able to convert ideas in my head to a finished garment. It’s all I’ve ever wanted!
In july I attended a patternmaking course at Central Saint Martins in London, and the course was truly an eye opener. We learned how to make basic blocks (bodice, skirt) and how to add facings, zippers, buttonholes and stuff. I also learned how to make the little bodice cubes which many of you probably have seen in the japanese patternmaking books. THAT was a moment of enlightenment. This pattern I made as a short swing coat, and then I added my favorite buttonhole detail; the scallops. This is a very rough prototype, as you can see the buttonsholes arent similar or aligned – but I just wanted to see whether my calculations were right in the first toile.
At the course we learned a lot about pleats, box, knife, and inverted ones. I think an inverted pleat like this in the back is really beautiful, and it reminds me of the 60’s coats I love so much. I tried some top stitching too, and I think it looks quite nice!
I wanted to add a coherence between the front closure and the sleeves. I found this little scalloped cuff to be cute and cohesive. I’ll add a bound buttonhole to the scallop.
I took these pictures two days ago, and since then I’ve made another toile. I’ve started to cut the pattern pieces from the lovely green boucle fabric I’ll use for this coat. I’ll post some pictures of the bound buttonholes next week.
In december/january I’ll reveal what I’ve been working on since summer!